Embracing the Flavors of the Pacific
As a seasoned chef with a deep passion for the culinary arts, I’ve had the privilege of exploring the vibrant and diverse food scene of coastal California. From the rugged cliffs of Mendocino to the sun-drenched shores of San Diego, this region has captivated me with its bountiful seafood, innovative chefs, and unparalleled terroir.
One of the true delights that has captured my heart is the humble yet extraordinary sea urchin, or “uni” as it’s known in the culinary world. These spiny echinoderms, harvested from the kelp forests of the Santa Barbara Channel, are widely regarded as some of the finest in the world, prized for their creamy, umami-rich gonads.
It’s a joy to watch a true master of the craft, like Stephanie Mutz, delicately pluck these delicacies from the rocky coves and inlets, their vibrant orange hues shimmering beneath the water’s surface. As a commercial urchin diver and the owner of Sea Stephanie Fish, Stephanie has dedicated her career to sharing the bounty of the Pacific with chefs and diners alike.
“People go crazy for sea urchin,” Stephanie tells me with a smile. “They run me over for it!”
Her passion for sustainability and quality is evident in every urchin she harvests, ensuring that these precious ingredients end up on the plates of some of the most acclaimed restaurants in California and beyond.
Crafting Coastal Cuisine
The true joy of cooking with sea urchin lies in its transformative power. Whether served as a luxurious sashimi, nestled in a silky uni custard, or folded into a creamy pasta, this versatile ingredient can elevate even the most humble dish into a culinary masterpiece.
At n/naka in Los Angeles, Chef Niki Nakayama showcases the best of California’s coastal bounty, deftly incorporating uni into her sophisticated kaiseki-inspired menu. “We use uni for both sushi and sashimi, but also as uni tempura, or steamed to create a custard,” she explains. “I like to imagine using uni the way I use eggs—in a sauce, soft-poached with egg yolk and a frothy meringue.”
The key to unlocking the true flavor of uni, Niki reveals, is to treat it with the utmost care and respect. “Uni is such a prized delicacy because the yield from one urchin is so little—it only carries five lobes,” she says. “It’s something that has to be foraged for and is such a fragile ingredient.”
At Connie & Ted’s in West Hollywood, Executive Chef Sam Baxter expertly incorporates Stephanie’s sustainably harvested uni into a decadent brunch omelet, showcasing the ingredient’s versatility beyond the sushi bar. “Stephanie Mutz harvests uni for at least two dozen restaurants between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara,” Sam shares. “She’s really the one who’s helped bring uni into the spotlight for home cooks and diners alike.”
Pairing Perfection
Of course, no discussion of coastal cuisine would be complete without exploring the art of wine pairing. As a sommelier with years of experience in the industry, I’ve found that the briny, umami-forward flavors of uni pair beautifully with a carefully curated selection of wines and sakes.
Jeffry Undiarto, the sommelier at n/naka, suggests pairing uni with Blanc de Blancs Champagne, crisp Chablis, or a rich Junmai Daiginjo sake. “Uni is such a prized delicacy because the yield from one urchin is so little—it only carries five lobes,” he explains. “It’s something that has to be foraged for and is such a fragile ingredient. We source it from a local uni diver, Stephanie Mutz, who understands so deeply what a precious treasure it is.”
The interplay between the creamy, oceanic notes of the uni and the bright acidity or subtle umami of the wine or sake creates a harmonious dance on the palate, elevating the dining experience to new heights. It’s a testament to the skill and expertise of California’s culinary artisans.
Mastering Techniques
Of course, the art of preparing and presenting sea urchin is not without its challenges. As Stephanie Mutz shares, the delicate nature of these spiny creatures requires a deft touch and a deep understanding of their unique characteristics.
“Catching and selling sea urchin directly to the consumer, where I know my product is being properly utilized, appreciated and not wasted, is the most honest job I have ever had,” Stephanie tells me. “But it’s not without its risks. Strong or unexpected currents, recreational boats, and even the urchins themselves can pose a danger to divers like myself.”
To ensure the highest quality and freshness, Stephanie has developed a close partnership with Doug Bush of The Cultured Abalone Farm. By transporting nutrient-starved urchins from the barrens to Bush’s facility, they are able to “ranch” the creatures, feeding them a rich diet of seaweed to plump up their prized gonads.
“We’re able to create not just urchins that are full of roe but urchins that are full of really delicious roe,” Doug explains. “It’s a win-win for the environment and for consumers who want to enjoy the finest uni possible.”
For home cooks eager to explore the world of sea urchin, Stephanie has generously shared her expertise on the proper handling and preparation techniques. From cracking open the spiny shell to rinsing the delicate lobes in a saltwater solution, each step requires a deft touch to preserve the ingredient’s natural sweetness and creamy texture.
“If things go wrong and I’m not prepared, it can start to snowball into more dangerous situations,” Stephanie cautions. “But for those who are willing to take the time to learn, the rewards of enjoying fresh, sustainably harvested uni are truly unparalleled.”
Presentation with Panache
As any seasoned chef will attest, the art of food presentation is paramount in creating a truly memorable dining experience. When it comes to showcasing the bounty of the Pacific, the chefs of coastal California have elevated this craft to an art form.
At The Lark in Santa Barbara, uni is often featured as a luxurious topping, its vibrant orange hues complementing the restaurant’s rustic-chic ambiance. The team works closely with Stephanie to ensure the freshest, most pristine urchins, carefully arranging them atop dishes like grilled octopus or delicate crudo.
“Stephanie brings the freshest sea urchin,” says The Lark’s Executive Chef, Leo Andres Ayala. “I’d rather get my urchin from her because she can harvest according to a chef’s exact requirements as she is an expert in the sea urchin industry, both from a commercial and research standpoint.”
For a truly indulgent experience, Chef Leo occasionally prepares a rich bisque of sea urchin, served in the urchin’s own spiny shell and topped with even more fresh uni. The contrast of the briny, creamy urchin against the rustic presentation never fails to delight diners.
Over at Belmond El Encanto, the culinary team has crafted a stunning sea urchin dish that showcases the ingredient’s versatility. Featuring aji amarillo puree, a vibrant citrus salad, and toasted brioche points, the dish allows the pure, oceanic flavor of the uni to shine, while the accompanying elements elevate the overall experience.
As I’ve discovered, the true magic of coastal cuisine lies in the seamless fusion of exceptional ingredients, innovative techniques, and thoughtful presentation. It’s a dance that the chefs of California have perfected, and one that I’m honored to share with the world.
Exploring the Coastal Bounty
Beyond the realm of sea urchin, the waters of coastal California teem with a wealth of other extraordinary seafood that deserves equal reverence. From the delicate sweetness of Dungeness crab to the briny allure of Kumamoto oysters, each ingredient offers a unique flavor profile to explore.
One of my personal favorites is the humble abalone, a mollusk that has been prized for centuries in Asian cuisines. Thanks to the efforts of aquaculturists like Doug Bush, these once-elusive creatures are now more accessible to home cooks and chefs alike.
“People who have gotten big ones will remember them being really tough,” Doug explains. “You don’t have to do that with ours. They’re smaller and a lot easier to work with.” He suggests simply wiping the abalone down, adding a touch of butter, and grilling them in their shells for a delightful, tender result.
The team at Bacon & Brine in Solvang, California, has even taken the concept of coastal ingredients to new heights, crafting a decadent sea urchin ice cream with a caramel swirl. “It’s so good!” Stephanie Mutz exclaims, her eyes widening with delight. “In Solvang, chef Pink at Bacon & Brine does a sea urchin ice cream with caramel, and it’s just divine.”
As I continue to explore the diverse flavors of California’s coastal cuisine, I’m consistently impressed by the dedication, innovation, and sustainability-mindedness of the chefs and purveyors who bring these incredible ingredients to life. From the kelp forests of the north to the sun-drenched shores of the south, the bounty of the Pacific is a true treasure trove waiting to be discovered.
Savoring the Experience
At the heart of coastal cuisine lies a deep reverence for the land and sea, and the artisans who dedicate their lives to preserving and celebrating this precious bounty. Whether it’s the meticulous work of urchin diver Stephanie Mutz, the culinary artistry of chefs like Niki Nakayama and Sam Baxter, or the innovative spirit of aquaculturists like Doug Bush, each player in this vibrant ecosystem plays a vital role in creating unforgettable dining experiences.
As I reflect on my culinary adventures along the California coast, I’m struck by the sense of community and camaraderie that permeates this industry. The fishermen, chefs, and purveyors work in tandem, sharing knowledge, resources, and a deep-seated passion for showcasing the best that the Pacific has to offer.
“Fisherman in Santa Barbara are some of the most well-educated, ecologically aware, and ethical people I know,” Stephanie Mutz shares. “We’re not just a bunch of salty-crusty guys. We know we need to take care of the resource, or we’re out of a job.”
It’s this unwavering commitment to sustainability and quality that truly sets the coastal cuisine of California apart. Each bite, each sip, each culinary encounter is infused with a sense of place, a reverence for the natural world, and a celebration of the human ingenuity that brings these flavors to life.
As I savor the last morsels of uni, the briny-sweet essence lingering on my palate, I’m reminded of the profound connection between the land, the sea, and the people who dedicate their lives to nurturing this delicate balance. It’s a symphony of flavors, textures, and stories that I’m honored to share with the world.
So, whether you’re a seasoned oenophile, a passionate home cook, or simply a lover of all things culinary, I invite you to embark on your own coastal cuisine adventure. Immerse yourself in the vibrant flavors, the stunning presentations, and the warm hospitality that defines this remarkable region. For in doing so, you’ll not only discover the true essence of California’s bounty, but you’ll also uncover a deeper appreciation for the artistry, sustainability, and community that lies at the heart of every memorable meal.
