As a seasoned culinary expert with extensive experience in California cuisine, wine, and fine dining, I’m thrilled to take you on a journey through the diverse and ever-evolving wine regions of the Golden State. Beyond the glitz and glamour of Napa’s towering estates, there lies a rich tapestry of terroirs waiting to be discovered. Join me as we peel back the layers and uncover the unique characteristics that define California’s most celebrated wines.
The Greenhouse Effect: Napa’s Meteoric Rise
Napa Valley may be the darling of the wine world, but its meteoric rise to stardom is rooted in more than just its reputation for world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. As viticulturist Steve Matthiasson explains, the secret to Napa’s success lies in its unique microclimate, which he aptly describes as a “greenhouse.”
“Meteorologically speaking, we have this really high pressure dome that blocks all the rain and clouds out,” Matthiasson says, gesturing to the impeccably azure sky above. “But it doesn’t get too hot either, because we get this marine influence.” This balance of warm days, cool nights, and consistent sunshine creates the perfect conditions for a diverse array of grape varieties to thrive.
Indeed, Napa’s winemaking history is far more varied than its modern-day Cabernet dominance might suggest. “Napa Valley used to have many, many different varieties,” Matthiasson explains, recalling the region’s vibrant viticultural past. “At To Kalon vineyard, there were hundreds of different varieties they were testing. And a ton of them made great wine, and all the way up to and through the 60s Napa had many different varieties. We even had Chasselas!”
The shift towards Cabernet Sauvignon can be traced back to the 1960s, when French wines gained popularity in the United States, thanks in part to the influence of culinary icon Julia Child. “Then we started planting Cabernet,” Matthiasson explains. Of course, the now-legendary Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976, where Napa Cabernets and Chardonnays triumphed over their prestigious French counterparts, further cemented the region’s reputation for world-class wines.
Terroir Trumps Trends: Embracing Napa’s Diversity
While Cabernet Sauvignon may reign supreme in Napa, the region’s true strength lies in its diversity. As winemaker Bob Foley tells me, the speed at which Napa has grown is due in large part to the producers’ openness to sharing information and their collective desire to constantly improve.
“In my early days as a winemaker in the 70s, we were still trying to figure out how the technology that was available or becoming available could make better wine,” Foley recounts. “We had apple presses in the beginning, then we finally got wine presses. That was a big game changer.”
But Napa’s success is also its greatest threat, as the region has become increasingly homogenized. “Disease and pest control is a huge issue,” warns Dr. Andy Walker, head of viticulture studies at UC Davis. “We’ve had a number of unsustainable practices to try and control them all, so they’ve built up a lot of resistance.”
Yet, despite the challenges, Napa’s producers remain committed to embracing the region’s natural diversity. As I talk to the winemakers and viticulturists, I’m struck by their unwavering passion for exploring the nuances of Napa’s terroirs.
“If you’re talking about terroir in Chile, I would say Maule, Cauquenes, maybe Itata, are the real terroirs in Chile,” says French winemaker Arnaud Hereu, who has been making wine in Chile for over two decades. “Napa Valley is a long skinny valley, but it has about half the known soil types in the world represented in this one place. And climate wise, we have the really cool mouth of the valley but it gets progressively warmer up the valley. You have all these different scenarios here, and Cabernet does well in them all.”
Terroir Tasting: Exploring the Diversity of Napa’s AVAs
With over 16 sub-appellations, or American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), within the broader Napa Valley AVA, it’s clear that this renowned region is anything but a one-trick pony. As my fellow Carpe Vinum supper club members and I set out to explore the differences between these distinct terroirs, we quickly realized that the task was no easy feat.
“Given our rather unscientific approach to our question, realistically, my goal was only to see if we could tell the difference between the Cabernets from the Napa Valley floor vs. the Cabernets from the mountain (altitude) AVAs,” writes the Armchair Sommelier. “And I’m happy to report we achieved that goal. The fruit-forward power vs. savory spice and acid restraint was very noticeable. But a difference between Howell Mountain and Atlas Peak? I feel like I’m splitting hairs there.”
Indeed, the nuances between Napa’s sub-appellations can be subtle, and even experienced tasters can struggle to distinguish them. However, by exploring the unique characteristics of each AVA, we can gain a deeper appreciation for the diversity that makes Napa so special.
The Napa Valley Floor
The wines from the Napa Valley floor, such as those from the Oakville and Rutherford AVAs, tend to be more powerful and fruit-forward. In Oakville, the Cabernet Sauvignon often exhibits flavors of eucalyptus, mint, sage, and black currant, while Rutherford Cabernets are known for their “Rutherford Dust” profile, which includes notes of plum, cherry, herb, and mint.
The Mountain AVAs
The mountain-grown Cabernets, from regions like Howell Mountain and Atlas Peak, generally exhibit a leaner, more savory and spice-driven profile. The altitude and cooler temperatures in these areas lend the wines a more restrained, structured character, with a focus on acidity and tannins.
Coastal Influences
Appellations like Los Carneros and Coombsville, which are influenced by the nearby San Pablo Bay, showcase the cooling effects of the maritime climate. These regions are better suited for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Cabernet Sauvignon taking a backseat to the more cool-climate varieties.
As we tasted our way through the lineup, it became clear that while the differences between Napa’s sub-appellations may be subtle, they are undoubtedly there. The true challenge lies in training our palates to discern these nuances, a journey that I’m more than happy to continue exploring.
Broadening the Horizon: Beyond Napa’s Boundaries
While Napa may be the crown jewel of California’s wine country, it would be a disservice to overlook the wealth of other exceptional wine regions throughout the state. From the cool-climate excellence of Santa Barbara to the up-and-coming Livermore Valley, there is a world of diversity waiting to be discovered.
In Santa Barbara, the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay produced under the influence of the Pacific Ocean’s cooling breezes are nothing short of exceptional. As the Sommvivant blog notes, “The real star of the show here is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which are nothing short of exquisite, and very much their own thing. It’s tempting to compare them to Burgundy for all the savory and umami goodness oozing from both varieties, but it would be inaccurate to do so.”
Meanwhile, the Livermore Valley, just a stone’s throw from the tech-hub of Silicon Valley, is quietly making a name for itself as a producer of world-class Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. As I’ve shared in a previous article on schoolstbistro.com, this “hidden gem” of a region boasts a rich history, diverse terroirs, and a vibrant community of passionate winemakers.
By broadening our horizons beyond Napa, we can truly appreciate the depth and breadth of California’s wine country. Each region, with its unique microclimate, soil composition, and winemaking traditions, offers a distinct expression of the state’s terroir. It’s a journey of discovery that I’m excited to continue, one sip at a time.
Embracing the Terroir Trailblazers
As I reflect on my experiences exploring the diverse wine regions of California, I’m struck by the unwavering dedication and ingenuity of the winemakers and viticulturists who call this state home. From the pioneers of Napa’s Cabernet revolution to the trailblazers championing the unique terroirs of lesser-known appellations, these individuals are the backbone of California’s wine industry.
Take, for example, Arnaud Hereu, the French winemaker who has been making wine in Chile for over two decades. When he came to Napa, he was amazed by the region’s diversity, particularly in the Maule Valley of Chile, where he discovered the potential of old-vine Carignan. “Really for me, Maule and especially Cauquenes is a very important wine region for that aspect, but also because I really believe it is maybe the most traditional region in the entire of Chile,” Hereu says.
Or consider the team at Dragonette Cellars in Santa Barbara, where winemaker Brandon Sparks-Gillis is pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. As the Sommvivant blog notes, “It may not look like much on the outside, but the literal garage that is the Dragonette tasting room is wonderful and filled with some of my favorite wine from the region.”
These are the individuals who are not only crafting exceptional wines, but also shining a light on the unique terroirs that make California’s wine country so exceptional. They are the trailblazers, the visionaries, and the true ambassadors of the state’s rich viticultural heritage.
Conclusion: A Sommelier’s Toast to California’s Terroir
As I raise my glass to the diverse tapestry of California’s wine country, I can’t help but feel a deep sense of gratitude and awe. This state, with its myriad microclimates, soils, and winemaking traditions, is a true treasure trove for the curious wine enthusiast.
From the towering estates of Napa to the coastal enclaves of Santa Barbara, and the hidden gems like the Livermore Valley, each region offers a unique and captivating expression of terroir. It’s a journey of discovery that I’m excited to continue, one that promises to constantly surprise and delight me.
So here’s to the winemakers, viticulturists, and terroir trailblazers who are pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in California. Your unwavering dedication to crafting exceptional wines and championing the diversity of this remarkable state is an inspiration to us all. Cheers to the terroir of the Golden State – may it continue to captivate and enchant us for generations to come.
