When it comes to California cuisine, the state’s undisputed epicenter lies in the fertile Central Valley. This unassuming agricultural heartland harbors a thriving community of passionate artisans, each committed to elevating the region’s bounty into something truly extraordinary. At the forefront of this culinary renaissance is the city of Lodi, where a new generation of innovative chefs and brewers are carving out their own distinct identity, weaving together the heritage and innovation that define California’s diverse food culture.
Pioneering the Next Wave of California Craft
As I stand in the sun-dappled beer garden of High Water Brewing, I’m immediately struck by the palpable sense of creativity and community that permeates the space. This ambitious operation, launched in 2010 by husband-and-wife duo Steve and Barri Altimari, embodies the spirit of the new Lodi – a place where tradition and modernity coexist in harmonious balance.
“We started High Water with the vision of bringing unique flavors to the curious palate,” Steve explains, his infectious enthusiasm spilling over as he details the brewery’s evolution. From their early days contracting production at nearby facilities, to the recent opening of their own state-of-the-art taproom and small-batch brewhouse, High Water’s journey has been one of steady, purposeful growth.
What sets this operation apart, however, is its unwavering commitment to culinary innovation. While many craft breweries relegate food to an afterthought, the Altimaris have elevated the dining experience to an art form, with Barri’s deft touch shining through in every dish that emerges from the kitchen.
“Barri is our flavorologist,” Steve says with pride. “She’s the one who develops the concepts and translates them into recipes that pair seamlessly with our beers.” The result is a menu that reads like a love letter to California’s rich agricultural heritage – wood-fired pizzas crowned with local produce, hearty sandwiches showcasing artisanal charcuterie, and, of course, the signature s’mores dessert, a nod to the brewery’s campfire-inspired stout.
But High Water’s impact extends far beyond the confines of its own property. By championing collaboration and supporting fellow purveyors, the Altimaris have helped foster a thriving ecosystem of artisanal producers throughout the region. “We’re not just a brewery – we’re a platform for celebrating the creativity and craftsmanship of our community,” Steve affirms.
Mastering the Art of Seasonal, Sustainable Cuisine
Venture just a few miles down the road, and you’ll encounter another beacon of Lodi’s culinary renaissance – Blacksage Restaurant, nestled within the tranquil Open Sky Zion resort. Here, Executive Chef Charles Parcell has carved out a reputation for his unwavering commitment to showcasing the best of local, seasonal ingredients.
“At Blacksage, we’re dedicated to nurturing our guests with unforgettable, full-sensory dining experiences,” Parcell explains. “That means sourcing the freshest, most vibrant produce and proteins, and highlighting their natural flavors through simple, elegant preparations.”
Parcell’s menu is a testament to his culinary prowess, with each dish striking a delicate balance between rustic authenticity and refined sophistication. The grilled asparagus salad, for instance, is a masterclass in letting the prime seasonal ingredients shine, accented by the rich creaminess of local chevre and the bright pop of citrus vinaigrette. And the seared duck breast, served alongside roasted beets and a vibrant chimichurri, is a study in contrasts – the tender, gamey meat offset by the sweetness of the root vegetables and the herbaceous punch of the sauce.
But Parcell’s commitment to sustainability extends far beyond the plate. “We work closely with our local purveyors to ensure that every ingredient we use is produced in a responsible, environmentally conscious manner,” he explains. “It’s not just about the final product – it’s about honoring the entire journey, from farm to table.”
This holistic approach permeates every aspect of the Blacksage experience, from the resort’s breathtaking natural setting to the serene, thoughtfully designed dining room. “We want our guests to feel truly nurtured, both physically and spiritually,” Parcell says. “That’s the essence of California cuisine – celebrating the abundance of our land while fostering a deep connection to the natural world.”
Reviving Tradition with a Culinary Twist
As I venture further into Lodi’s dynamic culinary landscape, I’m struck by the region’s unwavering reverence for its Italian heritage. Nowhere is this more evident than at Fattoria e Mare, where Chef Pablo Estrada has elevated the humble art of pasta making to new, virtuosic heights.
“Pasta alla ruota is more than just a dish – it’s a celebration of tradition and craftsmanship,” Estrada explains, as he deftly maneuvers a steaming nest of tonnarelli into a hollowed-out wheel of Pecorino Romano. “The way the hot pasta mingles with the fresh, pungent cheese – it’s a sensory experience that transports you straight to the heart of Italy.”
Estrada’s reverence for his culinary heritage is palpable, but his approach is anything but static. By incorporating unexpected ingredients like long pepper from Cambodia and spicy Pecorino Pepato, he’s put a distinctive stamp on classic recipes, breathing new life into the time-honored techniques of his ancestors.
“I’m not interested in replicating the past – I want to honor it, to build upon it,” he says with conviction. “That’s what true innovation is all about – taking the foundations of tradition and reimagining them for a modern palate.”
This sentiment is echoed across Lodi’s culinary landscape, from the wood-fired pizzas at High Water to the seasonal, farm-forward fare at Blacksage. It’s a testament to the region’s innate understanding that progress and preservation need not be mutually exclusive, but rather, integral to one another.
Cultivating a Taste for the Unexpected
As I reflect on my time in Lodi, I’m struck by the region’s remarkable ability to seamlessly blend the old and the new, the familiar and the unexpected. This is a place where artisanal craft beer and elevated farm-to-table cuisine coexist in harmonious symphony, where tradition and innovation intertwine to create something uniquely Californian.
But perhaps most importantly, Lodi is a destination that rewards the curious palate. Whether you’re savoring the smoky, roasted notes of High Water’s Campfire Stout, marveling at the velvety texture of Fattoria e Mare’s pasta alla ruota, or reveling in the vibrant, seasonal flavors of Blacksage’s menu, there’s a sense of discovery and delight that permeates every bite and sip.
So the next time you find yourself craving a taste of California’s culinary cutting edge, I urge you to venture beyond the well-trodden paths of the coast and immerse yourself in the rich, dynamic flavors of Lodi. It’s a journey that promises to engage all your senses, leaving you with a newfound appreciation for the power of artisanal craft and the endless possibilities of the Golden State’s agricultural bounty.
